Air Conditioning Guide

Florida summers put real demand on any cooling system. When outdoor temperatures climb into the mid 90s, your air conditioner runs longer and your electric bill rises. This is normal and does not mean the system is broken. This guide explains how your AC should perform, how to keep your bill in check, simple steps to troubleshoot before you call, and when an issue is an emergency.

How Your Air Conditioner Should Perform in Florida

Air conditioners are designed to cool a home to roughly 20 degrees below the outdoor temperature. When it is 95 degrees outside, the system works hard to hold the mid 70s indoors, so it runs close to constantly during the hottest part of the day. During peak afternoon heat, most homes will struggle to hold a setting below 75 degrees. A unit that runs almost nonstop in July is usually doing exactly what it was built to do.

Your thermostat setting is the single biggest factor in both runtime and cost. The lower you set it, the harder and longer the system runs. Duke Energy Florida states that raising your thermostat from 73 to 76 degrees saves more than 15 percent on electricity costs. ENERGY STAR recommends a minimum summer setting of 78 degrees for the best balance of comfort and cost.

Managing Your Energy Costs

A few habits make a measurable difference on your monthly bill:

• Set the thermostat to 76 to 78 degrees. Every degree lower adds roughly 3 to 5 percent to your cooling cost.
• Raise the setting a few degrees when you are away during the day.
• Replace your air filter every 30 to 60 days. A clean filter can lower energy use by 5 to 15 percent.
• Close blinds and curtains during the hottest part of the afternoon.
• Run ceiling fans counterclockwise. A fan lets you raise the thermostat about 4 degrees with no loss in comfort. Fans cool people, not rooms, so turn them off in empty rooms.
• Avoid setting the thermostat far below your target. It will not cool the home any faster and only drives up runtime and cost.

Source: Duke Energy Florida, summer cooling cost tips. View the full guidance.

Why Temperatures Vary From Room to Room

It is normal for some rooms to feel warmer or cooler than others, even when the system is working perfectly. A single thermostat reads the temperature at one spot in the home, usually a central hallway. Rooms far from that spot will read differently. Several factors drive this:

• Upstairs versus downstairs. Heat rises, so a second floor commonly runs several degrees warmer than the first floor in summer.
• Sun exposure. West and south facing rooms heat up through the afternoon. Large windows add to this through solar gain.
• Distance from the air handler. Rooms at the end of long duct runs receive less airflow and cool more slowly.
• Closed interior doors. A closed door blocks return airflow and traps heat in that room.
• High or vaulted ceilings. More air volume to cool, and warm air collects near the ceiling.
• Room size versus vent count. A large room served by a single small vent will lag behind the rest of the home.
• Blocked vents and returns. Furniture, rugs, or curtains over a vent reduce airflow to that room.
• Heat-producing items. Computers, electronics, lamps, and kitchen appliances add warmth to the rooms they sit in.
• Insulation and attic heat. Rooms directly under the attic or with multiple exterior walls run warmer than interior rooms.

A spread of a few degrees between rooms is expected, especially upstairs versus downstairs during peak heat. To even things out, keep interior doors open, keep vents and returns clear, close blinds on sun-facing windows, and run ceiling fans in occupied rooms. If one room is dramatically hotter than the rest, or airflow to a room suddenly drops off, submit a maintenance request so we can check it.

Routine Care You Are Responsible For

Simple, regular maintenance keeps your system efficient and helps you avoid service fees for issues you can prevent:

• Replace the air filter every 30 to 60 days. This is the most common cause of weak airflow and frozen coils.
• Keep supply and return vents open and unblocked by furniture, rugs, or curtains.
• Keep the outdoor unit clear of grass clippings, leaves, and debris. Allow two feet of space around it.
• Replace thermostat batteries when the low battery indicator appears.
• Watch for water near the indoor air handler, which can signal a clogged condensate drain.

Troubleshoot Before You Submit a Request

Run through these steps first. They resolve many AC calls and help you avoid a service fee for an issue you can fix yourself:

• Confirm the thermostat is set to COOL and the temperature is set below the current room temperature.
• Check the thermostat batteries and replace if needed.
• Replace a dirty air filter. A clogged filter can stop the system from cooling.
• Check your electrical panel for a tripped breaker and reset it once.
• Make sure all vents are open and unblocked.
• If the unit is accessible indoors, check to see the pan under it is full of water (sometimes it is visible, sometimes not).  If so, it likely means the condensate drain is clogged and the system shut off to prevent water damage.  Open a service ticket.

If the system still will not cool after these steps, submit a maintenance request through the Resident Portal.

When to Call and When to Submit a Request

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my electric bill so high in summer?
Florida heat forces your AC to run far longer than in cooler months, which raises your bill. The lower your thermostat, the more it runs. Duke Energy Florida reports that raising the setting from 73 to 76 degrees saves more than 15 percent on electricity. Setting closer to 76 to 78 will lower your bill while keeping the home comfortable.

Why does my AC run constantly and never seem to shut off?
Your system will run longer the hotter it is outside, even if the thermostat setting never changes. On the hottest afternoons, holding a low setting like 73 means the system runs almost without stopping. This is expected and is not a sign of a malfunction.

Why can my home not get cooler than 75 or 76 degrees?
Air conditioners are built to cool a home about 20 degrees below the outdoor temperature. When it is in the mid 90s outside, holding the mid 70s indoors is the realistic limit during peak heat. The system will catch up as temperatures drop in the evening.

How often should I change the air filter?
Every 30 to 60 days. A dirty filter is the most common cause of weak cooling and can raise energy use by 5 to 15 percent. A severely clogged filter can freeze the system and stop it from cooling entirely.

My AC stopped cooling. What should I do first?
Check the thermostat setting and batteries, replace the air filter, and check your electrical panel for a tripped breaker. If it still will not cool, submit a maintenance request. If you smell burning or see smoke or sparks, call the emergency line right away.

Is a broken AC considered an emergency?
Not in most cases. A system that runs but will not reach your set temperature should be submitted as an online request. Complete loss of cooling during extreme heat becomes urgent when an occupant is elderly, an infant, or has a heat-sensitive medical condition. In that situation, call the emergency line.

Can I be charged for an AC service call?
Yes, if the call was avoidable. See the note below.